Ligaya Mishan & Tejal Rao, The Modern Restaurant Critics Of The New York Times

Ligaya Mishan and Tejal Rao, the co-chief restaurant critics at The New York Times, are redefining restaurant criticism for a new era—one that values inclusivity, authenticity, and the human cost of the job. In a candid conversation with host Carrie Diamond, they reveal how their diverse childhoods—Mishan’s multicultural upbringing in Hawaii, where Spam and luau feasts were daily rituals, and Rao’s global journey through London, Uganda, and India—shaped their deep reverence for food as both cultural expression and daily joy. Their groundbreaking 2026 New York Times 100 Best Restaurants list, which prioritized accessibility and local voices over prestige, was not just a ranking but a portrait of the city’s soul, with Ligaya’s top pick, Cabala, a Caribbean restaurant in the East Village that redefines fine dining with warmth and artistry. They openly discuss the toll of the job—Pete Wells’ health essay made them confront their own limits—and how they’re building boundaries to sustain themselves, from personal trainers to mental resets. Amid the chaos of dining, writing, and public scrutiny, they remain committed to the idea that restaurants are more than places to eat: they’re communal spaces where humanity, creativity, and resilience persist, even in the face of fires, strikes, and AI. Their work is not just criticism—it’s a love letter to the people who keep feeding us, one imperfect, passionate meal at a time.