Does Sunscreen Stop Your Skincare From Working? - Episode 426
The hosts of The Beauty Brains tackle a listener question that cuts to the heart of skincare layering: does sunscreen block the effectiveness of other skincare products? The answer, according to cosmetic chemist Valerie George, is a qualified yes—sunscreen's occlusive film and oily texture can physically prevent active ingredients from penetrating the skin, especially water-based actives. But the real issue may be deeper: many skincare ingredients in makeup are included more for marketing than actual efficacy. The show debunks a viral product called AO2 Clear, which claims to treat acne with oxygen nanobubbles and water—only to be dismissed as pseudoscience with a flimsy clinical study and no regulatory backing. The hosts also expose the limitations of AI formulation tools like The Good Face Project, arguing they lack the nuance of real chemists and may even pose data privacy risks. For budget-conscious viewers, they offer a practical strategy: replicate the key silicone-based ingredients in expensive primers like Strivectin with more affordable alternatives. Finally, they clarify that infrared hair tools don’t inherently damage hair, but the brushing motion and heat still pose risks—making dedicated heat protectants still essential, even if oils offer some temporary benefit.
Sunscreen can physically block skincare ingredients from penetrating the skin due to its occlusive film and oily texture.
Skincare ingredients in makeup are often included for marketing, not actual efficacy, and rarely deliver noticeable results.
AO2 Clear's claim of treating acne with 'oxygen nanobubbles' is scientifically implausible and backed by a weak, self-reported clinical study.
AI formulation tools like The Good Face Project lack the nuance of experienced chemists and may pose data privacy risks.
To duplicate expensive primers like Strivectin, focus on matching key ingredients: cyclopentasiloxane and dimethicone cross-polymer.
…and 3 more takeaways available in PodZeus
New York Supplier's Day Recap
Perry and Valerie reflect on their exhausting trip to New York's Supplier's Day, including flight cancellations, a sinkhole at LaGuardia, and a chaotic hotel check-in at 2:30 AM. Despite the stress, they highlight the event's focus on biotechnology, peptides, and AI in cosmetics.
The End of 'Clean' Beauty Marketing
“Clean doesn't mean anything and it actually has created a lot of consumer confusion, especially from brands or beauty retailers that all have their own meaning of what clean means.”
Does SPF Block Skincare Ingredients?
“Even if you're not blocking them with the SPF, you're not getting much benefit out of these anyway. I think active ingredients in makeup products are mainly put in there for claims reasons.”
AI Formulation Tools: Hype or Help?
“You have to be a little unsure about what it's given you. So you have to double check anyway, and then that kind of removes some of the benefit.”
AO2 Clear: Oxygen Nanobubbles or Nonsense?
“There's no such thing as an oxygen nanobubble. They're just making that up.”
“Well, I actually like this because clean doesn't mean anything and it actually has created a lot of consumer confusion, especially from brands or beauty retailers that all have their own meaning of what clean means.”
“Well, I think for me what is not tough to say is even if you're not blocking them with the SPF, you're not getting much benefit out of these anyway. I think active ingredients in makeup products are mainly put in there for claims reasons”
“I just don't think it's good for it over time. And I would supplement it, particularly if, you know, it's been several hours since you applied it to your hair.”
Host
Guest
Valerie George
person
Perry Romanowski
person
The Good Face Project
organization
AO2 Clear
product
Strivectin Anti-Wrinkle Line Blurfector Primer
product
PFAS
other
FDA
organization
Amlactin
product
Bondi Boost
product
Briogeo Style Four-On-One Smoothing Weightless Hair Oil
product
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