759: Andrew Tarlow Waited 25 Years to Open in Manhattan. Then Came Borgo.
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In this landmark episode of *This Is TASTE*, host Matt Rodbarg welcomes Andrew Tarlow, the legendary restaurateur behind Brooklyn's Marlowe Collective and now Manhattan's Borgo, for his first-ever podcast appearance. Tarlow reflects on a quarter-century of restaurant innovation, from the raw, improvised opening of Diner in 1998—a converted rail car under the Williamsburg Bridge—to the meticulously crafted Borgo on East 27th Street. He shares intimate stories of mentorship at Odeon, the deep bonds forged with chefs like Caroline, Dave Gold, and Sean Rembold, and the emotional weight of closing beloved restaurants like Achilles' Heel and Salty. A central theme emerges: the deliberate, human-centered design of his restaurants—prioritizing staff well-being, long-term sustainability over rapid growth, and a deep respect for craft and community. Tarlow also reveals the family legacy at Borgo, where his son Elijah serves as sous chef, and discusses the quiet power of slow, intentional growth in an industry obsessed with speed and scale. The episode closes with a personal rapid-fire round, underscoring Tarlow’s enduring love for food, place, and the quiet dignity of a well-made sandwich.
Prioritize long-term sustainability over short-term volume: Tarlow intentionally limits Borgo’s capacity to ensure quality service and staff well-being.
Family and legacy are central: His son Elijah is a sous chef at Borgo, continuing a generational commitment to the craft.
The best restaurants are built on deep human connections: Relationships with staff, chefs, suppliers, and guests form the foundation of lasting success.
Closing a restaurant should be a thoughtful process, not a surprise: Tarlow reflects on the emotional toll of closures and the need for a 'long goodbye' to honor the past.
Innovation comes from craft, not trend-chasing: His farm-to-table ethos evolved from sourcing whole animals and building a butcher shop, not just seasonal ingredients.
…and 2 more takeaways available in PodZeus
The Return of Three Things: New York's Hidden Gems
Eliza and Matt kick off the episode with their signature segment, highlighting three exciting developments in the food world: Her Name Is Han’s continued excellence and possible expansion, the success of the new Greenpoint-based Border Town, and the charm of Kamhang Sponge Cakes in Chinatown. They also spotlight Rachel Kong’s new short story collection and Alicia Kennedy’s memoir on appetite and identity.
Andrew Tarlow’s First Podcast: A Life in Food
“I remember just looking around at the table at those people and I was like almost teary. Like you could almost just feel it. It's just such an emotional moment. And I knew, I turned to my wife at that time and I was like, in my eyes I was basically like, oh, we're going to be okay.”
The Legacy of Diner and the Marlowe Collective
“We didn't know how to run a business. How do you use QuickBooks? How do you even use a computer? I mean, again, we wrote the menu on the paper and I know it feels like a cliche and weird but we did it because I actually forgot and we all forgot that we needed printed menus.”
Borgo: The Quiet Debut of a Manhattan Icon
“I'm not trying to squeeze that lemon. I'm not trying to dig all the juice out of it. I'd actually like it to have a longer life.”
The Family Business: Elijah, Aiden, and the Next Generation
Tarlow opens up about his son Elijah’s role as sous chef at Borgo, a journey that began at age 13. He shares how Elijah and his friend Aiden co-led the R&D for Borgo and previously ran Mimi’s, a subterranean restaurant. This deep family involvement underscores Tarlow’s vision of a sustainable, intergenerational business.
“I remember just looking around at the table at those people and I was like almost teary. Like you could almost just feel it. It's just such an emotional moment. And I knew, I turned to my wife at that time and I was like, in my eyes I was basically like, oh, we're going to be okay.”
“When you build something that feels and becomes iconic, should there be actually like... Is there a good way to exit that, right?”
“I'm not trying to squeeze that lemon. I'm not trying to dig all the juice out of it. I'd actually like it to have a longer life.”
Hosts
Guest
Andrew Tarlow
person
Diner
other
Borgo
other
Caroline
person
Marlowe & Sons
other
Odeon
other
Sean Rembold
person
Romans
other
Dave Gold
person
Rachel Kong
person
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