Patterns for Plus Sizes, with Gabby Brown and Leila Kelleher | Episode 100
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In celebration of the 100th episode of 'Sewing with Threads,' host Carol Frazier welcomes authors Gabby Brown and Leila Kelleher to discuss their groundbreaking book, *Plus Size Pattern Making for Women's Wear*. The conversation unpacks the systemic gaps in plus-size pattern making within both the fashion industry and home sewing communities, challenging the myth that plus-size bodies are inherently more difficult to fit. Brown and Kelleher emphasize that the perceived complexity stems from unfamiliarity and lack of exposure, not technical difficulty. They advocate for a proportional, freehand drafting method that prioritizes fitting over rigid templates, and stress the importance of building inclusive education into fashion design curricula. The book’s approach—centered on creating fittable blocks tailored to individual measurements—aims to empower both students and home sewists to create well-fitting garments without constant adjustments. The hosts also address the financial and cultural barriers that deter brands from expanding size ranges, highlighting the need for authentic representation in marketing and the strong loyalty among plus-size consumers. Finally, they explore the practicalities of using the book’s methods in digital pattern-making software, urging learners to start with hand drafting to build foundational understanding.
The belief that plus-size pattern making is inherently harder is a myth rooted in unfamiliarity, not technical complexity.
Proportional, freehand drafting based on individual measurements creates more accurate and inclusive patterns than rigid, one-size-fits-all blocks.
Brands should invest in authentic plus-size model representation and early-stage fitting to break the cycle of poor fit and high returns.
Home sewists can achieve professional-level results by using the book’s step-by-step, replicable methods—no prior expertise required.
Starting pattern drafting by hand builds essential spatial and visual literacy before transitioning to digital tools.
Welcome to Episode 100 & the Threads Folkware Sewing Challenge
Host Carol Frazier kicks off the 100th episode with a call to action for the 2026 Threads Folkware Sewing Challenge, inviting participants to create updated folkwear looks using vintage or folkware patterns.
Introducing the Authors: Gabby Brown and Leila Kelleher
Carol introduces Gabby Brown, a technical designer with industry experience at Abercrombie & Fitch and J.C. Penney, and Leila Kelleher, designer behind Muna & Broad and a professor with a doctorate in biomechanics.
The Birth of a Groundbreaking Book: Solving the Plus-Size Pattern Gap
“We really believe that the reason that people perceive it to be more difficult is that it's unfamiliar.”
Debunking the Myth: Plus-Size Bodies Aren't More Complex
“There's exactly the same amount of variation in plus size bodies that there is in straight size bodies.”
From Industry Experience to Inclusive Design: How They Became Experts
Both guests share how they developed expertise through real-world experience—Brown in retail manufacturing, Kelleher through biomechanics and custom clothing—leading to the creation of Muna & Broad.
“There's exactly the same amount of variation in plus size bodies that there is in straight size bodies.”
“We really believe that the reason that people perceive it to be more difficult is that it's unfamiliar.”
“We don't believe that people should have to make pattern adjustments.”
Host
Guests
Leila Kelleher
person
Gabby Brown
person
Carol Frazier
person
metric system
other
imperial system
other
Threads Magazine
organization
Muna & Broad
brand
Martha
person
French curve
product
Toronto Metropolitan University
organization
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